sandbagging dictionary

Foreigners browsing route data bases about east german or czech sandstone climbing areas might do so with Google translate or a similar tool, but often this may yield in missing or misleading information. The following table lists some of the most common phrases found and shall help to avoid mistakes.

german

literal translation

meaning

Um die Sicherung braucht man sich nicht kümmern

Don't bother with pro.

There is none.

Übersichtlich gesichert

The protection is easily overviewable.

There is hardly any, and you are supposed to recognize that.

Da oben liegt eine Schlinge.

There is a sling above there.

You may place a knot as pro there, provided that you have the correct size and the ability to do so.

Hier braucht man keine Schlingen zu legen.

You don't need to place slings in that route.

Don't expect bolts either.

Der Weg ist akzeptabel gesichert.

The route is reasonably protected.

You don't hit the deck if you fall at the most difficult point.

gebietsuntypisch gut abgesichert.

Pro is exceptionally good compared to local standards (Adrspach).

You don't hit the deck if you fall at the most difficult point.

Die Absicherung ist etwas problematisch.

The protection is problematic.

You hit the deck if you fall at the most difficult point.

Das könnte zu Unannehmlichkeiten führen.

This could cause inconveniences.

You crash into the boulders.

Sternchenweg, *

star rated route

recommended and overcrowded route, or: the FA is somehow affilated to the climbing guide author

Ausrufezeichenweg, !

exclamation mark route

the exclamation mark is typical symbol for insufficient pro

langgezogenes Sternchen

stretched star

a stretched star looks very much like an exclamation mark

Der Weg hat ein Prädikat

This route has a rating/attribute/award

Although star ratings are most common, "strenouos" or "choss" are also attributes, and the most likely in the context is "insufficient pro"

Dies ist für Meilensammler.

This one is for earning frequent flyer miles.

Good chance for taking >50' falls.

Kann man nicht jedem empfehlen.

This cannot be recommended to everybody.

climbed only by the insane.

Für moralisch gefestigte Risskletterer

For morally strenghtened crack climbers.

Others will not survive.

Den Fehler macht man hier nur einmal.

Mistakes are made here usually only once.

Corpses don't get a second chance.

Da ist ein Landekreuz am Einstieg.

There is a landing cross at the start.

This route has caused at least one climber to bite the dust.

Hinterlässt einen nachhaltigen Eindruck.

Leaves a lasting impression.

You shit your pants.

ENU

Extrem nachsteigerunfreundlich - very unfriendly to followers

Usually exhibit features as long sparsely protected traverses or downclimb, so that the second one also gets a chance to shit their pants.

Alter Klassiker, es sind noch niedrige Begehungen zu holen.

This is an old classic and you still can score a low rep count.

Such horrible that most locals avoid this for a reason.

für Liebhaber

for lovers

For climbers with a perverted taste.

Die Kletterei ist nicht langweilig

This climb is not boring.

But possibly a horror trip.

In diesem Riß braucht man nicht zu klemmen.

You don't need to jam in that crack.

You can't, its an offwidth. Instead you have to struggle until puking.

da muss man mal die Hände aus den Taschen nehmen

here you have to take your hands out of your pockets

this is really bloody hard

da muss man einfach mal losmachen / losklettern

you simply have to start / climb

You can't do anything special. So get a move on and climb / fight like a man.

Gut zum Üben.

Good for training.

Will punish those badly who are not perfect in the corresponding technique.

Einige Griffe sind etwas knusprig

Some holds are crispy.

choss

interessante Gesteinsqualität

interesting rock quality

complete choss

hautunfreundlich

not skin-friendly.

You get grinded down to the bones.

frauentauglich

Suitable for women.

You don't get grinded down to the bones.

Riss

Crack

Default is offwidth

enger Riss

narrow crack

narrow offwidth, usually off-fist

Saugend

sucking

Very good jamming handcrack

Hundebahnhof

dog railway station

A widening in a crack. Akward is the part where it narrows again. Especially awful is narrowing from squeeze chimney to off-fist.

MK3

Menschliche Knotenschlinge Größe 3 / human knot size 3

Means on belay, that you have to jam yourself into the crack/chimney as pro as there is nothing else. Or worse, someone else has to sacrifice his arse as pro and while squeezing in a hundebahnhof is praying that you don't fall.

Keimig

sprouting

wet and green

kein Felskontakt

No contact to rock

You dig upwards through sand, earth and brushwood

Nett für den botanisch Interessierten.

Nice for botanical inclined.

You have to fight your way through weeds, thorns or wet algae.

Die Stelle ist interessant.

This part is interesting

Nobody has an idea how to climb that.

etwas größenabhängig

This is a bit size depending

Don't try if <1.90m

erfordert eine Mannschaftsleistung

This requires teamwork

Weird human pyramids are mandatory.

erfordert Kreativität

This requires creativity

hardly anybody has done this by fair means.

Delikatesse

delicacy

especially weird and pervert climb.

Mitnahme einer Bürste wird empfohlen.

Brush is recommended

Not climbed for ages and needs carefully cleaning before getting a chance to score.

Nichts für Fettleibige

Not recommended for obese.

Squeeze chimney, only acceptable for children or dwarfs.

mit peristaltischen Bewegungen kommt man höher.

done with peristaltic movements.

worst kind of squeeze chimney.

Das bringst Du!

You will do it!

Your actual chances to success are about 40% to 80%. But your effort will be guranteed entertainment for all spectators.

Den Weg muß man haben

This route is a must

This route consumed up all my physical resources, I shit my pants, nearly puked, still have nightmares and I want you to share that experience.

Das ist ein Scheissweg.

This route is shit.

I failed on this route.

großes Kino

great cinema

Fun and thrilling entertainment for the spectators, an epic for the actually involved

Grades (offical grade translation see e.g. http://www.coronn.com/TOPOS/ratingsystems/grades.pdf)

sandstone grade

US grade

comment

VIIb / VIIc

5.9 / 5.10a

For a long time the upper end of the scale, especially in czech republic. There you might end up with 5.11+, R-rated in the worst case.

VIIc extremny vystup (old czech guide)

5.10

Will make you freak out. Not for normal mortals.

VI anstr.

5.7 strenuous

Typically a seldom climbed classic. It is strenouous, but rather 5.9 than 5.7 and pro is x-rated.

V anstr.

5.6 strenuous

Same as above, but typically 5.8 with x-rated pro

IV anstr.

5.5 strenuous

Nobody climbs that, so I can't comment.

Last changed: 8.9.2009 Jörg Brutscher

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